September 2020 - Food

Where To Eat This Month - The Ivy Café Marylebone

A bustling set of smartly dressed bodies rub shoulders on the rich red of leather benches, which sit beneath pale blue walls dressed up with deco pictures. There may be little trouble landing a table here, but things still feel right: the antique bartop toys with the light, prying eyes are kept at bay with half-curtains along the windows, and – as with its older sister – the occasional famous face causes ripples of interest. But really, the first thing you’ll notice is tables: a tidal wave of mahogany (no table cloths here – it’s casual, remember?).

Classic British plates: starters include the likes of smoked salmon and crab, chicken liver parfait, seared scallops, and a delicious, if oversized, apple and stilton salad. Very competently done, and setting the tone for the main menu, where you won’t want to miss the famous Shepherd’s pie. Completely, irresistibly, heartwarming, the blend of lamb and beef is capable of bringing back rose-tinted memories that never were. It isn't haute cuisine. In fact, the brioche-crumbed chicken Milanese, topped with a fried egg and black truffle, sums up the food here: crowd favourites done right, with a just a few shavings of something to make us all feel a little special. On that note, start with a glass of champagne – it’s less than £9 a glass, and this is The Ivy (sort of), after all.

Crème brûlée, treacle tart, strawberry shortcake sundae, pannacotta… name a classic and here it is, present and correct. And why not, eh? Food is food, dining is about the company: here the dishes might be damned good, but they’re not nagging away for your attention. Still, the chocolate bombe is the bomb, the poured hot caramel melts the golden bell, drawing the curtains open to its vanilla ice cream and honeycomb centre. Smile-inducing indulgence.