September 2014 - Food

Where to eat this Month - Princess Garden

Long known as a specialist in northern Chinese cuisine, Princess Garden also has a range of dim sum that stands comparison with London’s best. As you would expect from the Mayfair address, the menu offers plenty of opportunities to splash out. Peking duck, lobster, shark’s fin and abalone are all available in a range of northern, Cantonese and inventive fusion dishes. On a recent visit, the dim sum menu lived up to the restaurant’s name: these little dumplings are fit for royalty. Enoki and beef cheung fun featured a perfectly steamed, cloud-light giant noodle wrapped around springy little mushrooms, tender beef and just enough water-chestnuts to create an interesting textural play. Chicken and mushroom steamed buns (baozi) were similarly light in texture, yet deep and rich in flavour.

Thanks to its well-staffed dining room, upmarket interiors and smart Mayfair address, the a la carte prices at this Northern Chinese restaurant are unsurprisingly on the steep side, but come lunchtime and the Cantonese dim sum menu, and it’s an altogether more affordable affair. On our visit, steamed chicken and mushroom buns combined a depth of flavour with a light, bouncy texture, while a trio of giant rice noodles came stuffed with tender pieces of beef, a scattering of enoki mushrooms and tiny pieces of diced water chestnut. Is it fit for a princess? Absolutely.

Address:
Princess Garden 8-10 North Audley Street
London
W1K 6ZD

Venue phone:
020 7493 3223

Opening hours:
Lunch served noon-4pm Mon-Fri; noon-4.30pm Sat, Sun. Dinner served 6.30-11pm Mon-Sat; 6.30-10.30pm Sun. Dim sum served noon-4pm daily

Price:
Main courses £9.50-£42. Dim sum £2.80-£3.50