January 2015 - Food
Where To Eat This Month - Hakkasan
More than a decade after it started wowing London’s big spenders with its classy Cantonese cooking, this Michelin-starred trendsetter remains a benchmark against which all high-end Chinese restaurants should be judged. The basement’s stylish interior (all dark wood lattice screens and moody lighting) still attracts the kind of beautiful people who might suppress their appetites – though there was little evidence of restraint on our midweek night visit. Plate after plate landed on tables around us, including signature dishes such as silver cod roasted in champagne, and jasmine tea-smoked organic pork ribs. We started with the dim sum platter, a basket of superbly crafted dumplings. The pastry was perfect in give and texture, just elastic enough to encase generous bites of flavour-packed meat and seafood. Sweet and sour Duke of Berkshire pork with pomegranate was equally good, the melting tenderness of top-quality meat turning the clichéd staple into a luxury - Chinese takeaways should weep with shame. Drinks run from cocktails via high-priced wines to specialist teas.
The original Hakkasan that spawned a global empire (including a newer branch in Mayfair) retains all its appeal: cool enough to be seen in, yet authentic enough to dash pretension. My rating 9/10.
Address:
Hakkasan 8 Hanway Place
London
W1T 1HD
Venue phone:
Opening hours:
Bar Open noon-12.30am Mon-Wed; noon-1.30am Thur-Sat; noon-midnight Sun. Restaurant Lunch/dim sum served noon-3.15pm Mon-Fri; noon-4.15pm Sat; noon-4.45pm Sun. Dinner served 5.30-11.15pm Mon-Wed, Sun; 5.30pm-12.15am Thur-Sat.
Transport:
Tube: Tottenham Court Road tube
Price:
Main courses £17-£61. Dim sum £3-£20. Set lunch £28 2 courses Dim sum set lunch (Sundays only) £48/58
More than a decade after it started wowing London’s big spenders with its classy Cantonese cooking, this Michelin-starred trendsetter remains a benchmark against which all high-end Chinese restaurants should be judged. The basement’s stylish interior (all dark wood lattice screens and moody lighting) still attracts the kind of beautiful people who might suppress their appetites – though there was little evidence of restraint on our midweek night visit. Plate after plate landed on tables around us, including signature dishes such as silver cod roasted in champagne, and jasmine tea-smoked organic pork ribs. We started with the dim sum platter, a basket of superbly crafted dumplings. The pastry was perfect in give and texture, just elastic enough to encase generous bites of flavour-packed meat and seafood. Sweet and sour Duke of Berkshire pork with pomegranate was equally good, the melting tenderness of top-quality meat turning the clichéd staple into a luxury - Chinese takeaways should weep with shame. Drinks run from cocktails via high-priced wines to specialist teas.
The original Hakkasan that spawned a global empire (including a newer branch in Mayfair) retains all its appeal: cool enough to be seen in, yet authentic enough to dash pretension. My rating 9/10.
Address:
Hakkasan 8 Hanway Place
London
W1T 1HD
Venue phone:
020 7927 7000
Opening hours:
Bar Open noon-12.30am Mon-Wed; noon-1.30am Thur-Sat; noon-midnight Sun. Restaurant Lunch/dim sum served noon-3.15pm Mon-Fri; noon-4.15pm Sat; noon-4.45pm Sun. Dinner served 5.30-11.15pm Mon-Wed, Sun; 5.30pm-12.15am Thur-Sat.
Transport:
Tube: Tottenham Court Road tube
Price:
Main courses £17-£61. Dim sum £3-£20. Set lunch £28 2 courses Dim sum set lunch (Sundays only) £48/58
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